Middle Rhine scenic drive: the Loreley and the castles

Through the gorge of castles

Between Bingen and Koblenz the Rhine forces its way through a deep, winding gorge, lined with steep vineyards and topped by a castle on almost every ridge. This is the Middle Rhine, the setting of Rhine Romanticism and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002. This loop takes the finest stretch along the left bank: from the great Rhine bend at Boppard past Burg Rheinfels at Sankt Goar, straight across from the famous rock of the Loreley, on past the tower town of Oberwesel to Bacharach with Burg Stahleck high above the rooftops. The return climbs the Hunsrück heights, with ever-changing glimpses of the valley. About 89 kilometres in all, a full day of water, wine and castles, without a single metre of motorway.

The Rhine is the fastest route south, so most travellers race past on the motorway. This loop does the opposite: it stays on the old riverside road, where the barges, the ferries and the castles are at eye level. The Loreley and the Pfalzgrafenstein lie across the water, but stay in clear view from the route.

The route on the map

A schematic overview by Touren.app, not a navigation map. The exact route opens under “Drive this route” or in Google Maps. Map orientation: north is up.

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The places along the route

2. Sankt Goar (Burg Rheinfels)

the largest castle ruin · Sankt Goar

Above Sankt Goar towers Burg Rheinfels, once the mightiest fortress on the Middle Rhine and still the largest castle ruin on the river. From its walls you look straight at the Loreley across the water: the steep slate rock where the Rhine makes its sharpest, deepest bend and where legend had the boatmen wrecked. Burg Katz and Burg Maus stand on the far bank too. Sankt Goar itself is a narrow town squeezed between the rock and the water.

Practical: park at the castle or in the town; a ferry at Sankt Goar / Sankt Goarshausen takes you to the Loreley on the far bank.

3. Oberwesel

the town of towers · Oberwesel

Oberwesel is called the Stadt der Türme, the town of towers: sixteen towers of the old town wall still stand, the best-preserved wall on the whole Rhine. Above the town lies the Schönburg, at the water the red Liebfrauenkirche. Just before Kaub across the river the Pfalzgrafenstein comes into view: a white toll castle shaped like a stone ship, in the middle of the Rhine, with Burg Gutenfels on the slope above. One of the most photographed spots in the valley.

Practical: park by the town wall; walk the towers and the Liebfrauenkirche on foot. View the Pfalzgrafenstein from the bank or take the ferry at Kaub.

4. Bacharach (Burg Stahleck)

the picture-postcard · Bacharach

Bacharach is perhaps the loveliest town on the Middle Rhine: a well-preserved half-timbered core within a complete town wall, topped by Burg Stahleck on a vineyard hill. The castle looks out over the rooftops, the river and the vineyards, and is now a youth hostel. In the town stand the ruin of the Wernerkapelle and rows of half-timbered houses along narrow lanes. It is the classic picture-postcard of Rhine Romanticism.

Practical: park on the edge or by the river; the climb to Burg Stahleck and the wall walk are done on foot.

Practical: for convertible, motorbike and camper

From the Netherlands and Belgium: the Middle Rhine lies on the fastest route south. From the border at Venlo or Aachen you reach Boppard or Koblenz in about two hours. To start the loop from your holiday base, type your start town into the planner and Touren.app rebuilds the same route from Boppard, Sankt Goar, Bacharach or wherever you are.

The far bank by ferry: between Bingen and Koblenz there is no bridge over the Rhine, but a string of car ferries (at Sankt Goar and Kaub among others). To climb the Loreley or see the Pfalzgrafenstein up close, cross by ferry; otherwise keep them in view from the left bank.

Which vehicle: the riverside road (B9) is flat and wide, the Hunsrück heights winding and open, together great for convertible and motorbike. It works well in a campervan too; mind the narrow half-timbered centres of Bacharach and Oberwesel and park on the edge.

The Moselle is around the corner: at Koblenz the Moselle flows into the Rhine. To make a few days of it, combine with the Moselle scenic drive around Cochem or the Middle Moselle scenic drive around Bernkastel, or head north to the High Eifel.

How we keep it honest: we have measured this loop and curated the stops; the label is 'measured and checked'; driving it comes next. The distance was set via Google Maps with motorways avoided.

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