The most beautiful drive on Kefalonia

White bays, a village on an isthmus and a cave lake in one day

Kefalonia is the largest and most mountainous of the Ionian islands: an island of white pebble bays between steep peaks, with the black pines of Mount Ainos on its highest top, hushed Venetian harbours and, underground, lakes and caves the sea flows through. This loop of about 120 kilometres threads together the six finest places: from the capital to the most famous bay in Greece, the picturesque north and the cave lakes of the east coast.

Unique to Touren.app: you do not have to start in Argostoli. Tap "drive this as a loop from your location" and we spin the round so it begins at the point nearest your hotel and returns you there. Many hotels are around Argostoli, Lassi, Skala or Sami; wherever you are, you join the round straight away.

The route on the map

A schematic overview by Touren.app, not a navigation map. The exact route opens under “Drive this route” or in Google Maps. Map orientation: north is up.

Plan your own route

The 6 places along the drive

1. Argostoli

Start · the capital

Argostoli sits on a lagoon, rebuilt entirely after the 1953 earthquake but with a warm, lively heart around the Lithostroto shopping street and the square. The stone De Bosset bridge from British times runs right across the lagoon, where loggerhead turtles swim; just outside town lie the Katavothres, the sea holes where the water disappears into the ground.

Practical: park on the seafront or by the bridge and continue on foot. At the fish market on the water you can spot the turtles. From here Touren.app also spins the loop from your own hotel.

2. Myrtos Beach

the famous bay · Myrtos

Myrtos is the most famous bay of Kefalonia and one of the most photographed beaches in Greece: a crescent of white pebble between two steep mountain walls, the water shading from turquoise to deep blue. The classic view is from the roadside viewpoint high above the bay, before you take the hairpin road down.

Practical: stop first at the roadside viewpoint for the photo, then drive the winding road down to the beach. There is little shade, so bring water. The surf can be strong.

3. Assos

the isthmus village · Assos

Assos is the loveliest village on the island: a handful of pastel houses on a narrow isthmus that links a green peninsula, crowned by a Venetian fortress of 1593, to the rest of Kefalonia. Around the little harbour are tavernas under the bougainvillea; a path climbs to the fortress walls with views over both bays.

Practical: park above the village and walk down; the lanes are narrow. The climb to the fortress takes half an hour and is worth it for the view.

4. Fiskardo

the spared harbour · Fiskardo

Fiskardo, on the northern tip, is the only village that came through the 1953 earthquake almost unscathed: a row of Venetian pastel houses around a natural yacht harbour, with cypresses and an old lighthouse on the headland. In the evening the facades and the sailing boats mirror in the water.

Practical: park at the edge, as the harbour itself is car-free and busy. Come early or towards evening. The ferry to Ithaca and Lefkada leaves from nearby.

5. Melissani

the cave lake · Melissani

Near Sami lies Melissani, an underground cave with a lake of clear, brackish water. When the cave roof collapsed, light came in: around midday the sun drops through the opening and turns the water electric blue. A rowing boat takes you across, past the spot where legend says the nymphs lived.

Practical: come around midday for the finest light on the water. Ticket and boat at the entrance; the descent to the lake is short. Nearby is the Drogarati stalactite cave.

6. Sami

the bay and the beach · Sami

Sami is the east coast port, with ferries to Ithaca and, around the corner, the long pebble beach of Antisamos in a green bay, where the film Captain Corelli's Mandolin was shot. From Sami you drive back over the ridge to Argostoli, with views over the interior and Mount Ainos.

Practical: park at Antisamos just behind the beach. Bring water and shade, as facilities are limited. The road back to Argostoli climbs and winds; take it gently.

Practical: for the rental car, convertible and motorbike

Where to start: the route begins in Argostoli, but you need not start there. Tap "drive this as a loop from your location" and Touren.app spins the loop to the point nearest your hotel, whether you are in Argostoli, Lassi, Skala or Sami.

The roads: Kefalonia has no motorway. The coast roads are broad, but the mountain roads (to Myrtos, Assos and over the ridge at Sami) are narrow and winding; drive gently and watch for oncoming traffic and goats. Driving is on the right, as at home, and there are no tolls.

The 1953 earthquake: it destroyed almost all of old Kefalonia, which is why the villages (Fiskardo aside) look new. It makes the spared places, such as Fiskardo and Assos, all the more special.

Best time: May, June, September and October are ideal: warm water, green mountains and quiet roads. In July and August it is hot and busy at Myrtos and Melissani; come early there, and save the mountain road for later in the day.

Reviews from drivers

Share this route or save it

Frequently asked questions

Keep exploring