The best scenic drive on Madeira

The mountain island in one grand loop

Madeira is a green mountain island in the middle of the Atlantic: steep cliffs, a laurel forest that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and roads that hairpin up and over the mountains. This drive strings the six finest places together in a loop of about 145 kilometres, from the capital Funchal along the south coast, over the Boca da Encumeada pass to the wilder north coast and back over the roof of the island.

Scenic roads by design: we steer the route along the well-known scenic roads and avoid the fast VE1 with its tunnels. You cross the Encumeada pass, with half a dozen viewpoints, and follow the tunnelled cliff road ER101 on the north coast, where in the rain the waterfalls splash across the road. The climb to Pico do Arieiro takes you above the clouds.

Unique to Touren.app: you do not have to start in Funchal. Click "drive it as a loop from your location" and we rotate the loop so it starts at the point nearest your hotel or apartment and brings you back.

The route on the map

A schematic overview by Touren.app, not a navigation map. The exact route opens under “Drive this route” or in Google Maps. Map orientation: north is up.

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The 6 places along the route

1. Câmara de Lobos

Start · the fishing village

Just west of Funchal lies Câmara de Lobos, a colourful fishing village where the traditional boats rest in the bay below a steep lava cliff. Winston Churchill painted the bay here, and by local lore this is where poncha was invented, the island drink of sugar-cane rum, honey and lemon. A relaxed start before you head along the coast.

Practical: park on the edge and walk down to the little harbour; try a poncha on a terrace. This is stop 1 and the pivot point for the drive-from-your-location loop.

2. Cabo Girão

the sea cliff · skywalk

At around 580 metres, Cabo Girao is one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe. On the edge is a glass-floored skywalk where you look straight down onto the fajas, the little sea-level fields that farmers could once reach only by boat. The view runs along the whole south coast back towards Funchal.

Practical: the skywalk is free, parking close by; a cable car also runs down to the fajas. Come in clear weather for the best view.

3. São Vicente

over the pass to the north coast · Sao Vicente

From the south coast you climb over the Boca da Encumeada, the pass that splits the island in two, with half a dozen viewpoints on the way. On the other side you drop to Sao Vicente, where a deep green valley meets the wilder north coast. Here begins the famous tunnelled cliff road ER101 towards Porto Moniz, where in the rain the waterfalls splash across the road.

Practical: take your time on the pass for the miradouros. At Sao Vicente you can visit the volcanic caves (Grutas); the old coast road is narrow, so drive gently.

4. Porto Moniz

the volcanic pools · Porto Moniz

In the north-west corner lies Porto Moniz, famous for its natural pools: basins in the black lava rock that fill with clear ocean water, sheltered from the surf. Just offshore sits the Ilheu Mole rock islet. The drive here along the north coast, with its cliffs and tunnels, is one of the finest on the island.

Practical: the pools charge a small fee and have changing rooms; there is also a free wilder section. Park by the village.

5. Santana

the thatched A-frame houses · Santana

On the north coast lies Santana, famous for its casas de Santana: small triangular houses with steep thatched roofs and brightly painted doors, part of Madeira's heritage. A few stand together as an attraction, with flower beds in front. From here you climb into the mountains towards the peak.

Practical: the best-known houses stand by the theme park and the town hall; a short photo stop. Santana is also the gateway to the laurel forest and the walk to Pico Ruivo.

6. Pico do Arieiro

above the clouds · Pico do Arieiro

The finale is the climb to Pico do Arieiro, at 1818 metres the third-highest peak of Madeira and reachable by car. The road up winds above the clouds; on a good day you look from the top across a sea of clouds to the neighbouring peaks, with sunrise if you are early. From here you drop back down to Funchal.

Practical: it can be cold and windy at the top, so bring a jacket; park at the viewpoint. The spectacular mountain walk to Pico Ruivo (PR1) also starts here.

Practical: for a rental car, convertible or motorbike

From which town: the route starts at Funchal, but you do not have to begin there. Click "drive it as a loop from your location" and Touren.app rotates the loop to the point nearest your hotel or apartment, so you set off from your own door and return to it.

Mountain roads and tunnels: Madeira is steep and winding. Our route deliberately takes the scenic ER roads, not the fast VE1 with its long tunnels. If you do want to press on between two places, the expressway is often close by. Drive gently on the hairpins and mind oncoming traffic on the narrow old coast road.

Vehicle: the mountain roads are a joy in a convertible or on a motorbike. Just as good in an ordinary rental car; a smaller car is pleasant in the narrow town centres. Check your brakes before the long descents.

Weather and altitude: the weather varies sharply from one side of the island to the other and with altitude. The south coast is often sunny while the north coast or the mountains sit in cloud. Clear weather pays off for Pico do Arieiro and Cabo Girao; check the mountain webcams beforehand and bring a jacket for the top.

Best time: Madeira is mild all year. For the sunrise above the clouds on Pico do Arieiro come very early; it gets busy during the day.

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